A Brief Guide to Tuscany
Tuscany, or Toscana in Italian, is known for its landscapes, history, food and wine and its artistic legacy where the past and present merge into a pleasant harmony.
HISTORY
The original inhabitants, the Etruscans settled in the area approximately the ninth century B.C finally succumbing to the Romans by the first century. The Romans established the cities of Lucca, Pisa, Siena, and Florence. The Roman civilization collapsed in the fifth century and the region was left to the Goths.
During the 12th and 13th centuries factions supporting the Papacy and the Holy Roman Empire gave rise to several powerful and rich independent city states in Tuscany: Arezzo, Florence, Lucca, Pisa, and Siena.
In the 1400s, the Medicis, who ruled Florence, annexed surrounding lands and cities to create modern region of Tuscany. In 1730 Tuscany transferred from the Medicis to Francis, Duke of Lorraine and Holy Roman Emperor. In 1806 with the dissolution of the Holy Roman Empire by Napoleon, Tuscany became part of the Austrian Empire. In the Italian Wars of Independence in the 1850s, Tuscany was transferred from Austria to the newly unified nation of Italy.
FOOD AND WINES OF TUSCANY
Food and wine of Tuscany are of course, world-renowned. The excellence of the cooking is based on the fine, simple and fresh ingredients that abound in the region. Wild boar still roam the flat regions of the Maremma. The best beef in Italy comes from the Val di Chianna, south of Arezzo. The Tyrrhenian Sea supplies the ingredients for some of the world’s best sea food, such as the Tuscan stew known as “cacciuco”, and “fritto misto di mare”, a breaded seafood preparation, which may also be found inland, prepared with veal or chicken, cheese or vegetables.
Siena was a resting place for caravans from the Orient, and many recipes for spicy rich sweets are common there such as “Panforte”. This is a traditional cake made from almonds, hazelnuts, cinnamon, honey, sugar, candied fruit, coca, flour, orange and lemon rinds, and spices. It goes best with a strong wine or black coffee.
Olive oil is a very important ingredient in Tuscany; some of the best comes from Lucca.
The most famous Tuscan dish is called “bistecca alla fiorentina”, which is a steak from the white cattle of Val di Chiana, cooked over an open fire of charcoal of vine shoots and soft wood.
Tuscan restaurants generally divide their menu into six sections:
Antipasti, Ministre (soups and pasta dishes), Pietanze (main dishes), Contorni (vegetable side dishes), Formaggi (cheeses), and Dolci (deserts). Near the sea you may find a seventh one, Pesci, which is of course fish and sea food.
The drink portion of the menu under the heading “Vini” may simply suggest the local red wine ”rosso locale” or the white “bianco locale”.
The word “locale”, when referring to Tuscan wine, can often mean a special treat, as many local wines with no international fame or even no official ‘appellation’, are often excellent. A few of the better ones are:
- Parrina, both red and white, found only in the region of Porto San Stefano and Porto Ercole.
- Rosso delle Colline Lucchesi, a red wine in the hills near Lucca.
Listed as well is “birrra alla spina” (draught beer), “aqua minerale”(mineral water), “café espresso” and “café corretto” (coffee laced with brandy)
The Highway N222 is known as the “Via Chiantigiana”, or The Chianti Road and runs from Florence to Siena splitting the Chianti Classico Region in two. To stop along the route at the various “Fatoria” to buy and taste Chianti is a wonderful experience. Among the wonderful Chianti’s of the region, the smallest of the seven zones, Rufina makes some of the finest. The other six Chianti zones are Colli Senesi, Colli Fiorentini, Colli Arentini, Montalbano and Colli Pisane.
Although Chianti Wine Region is better known, most connoisseurs would agree that the “Brunello di Montalcino” located south of Siena, is the best wine of the region. Made from the brunello grape, this is a stronger wine, deep red in colour that grows browner with age. It is almost always at least five years old, and is more expensive.
San Gimignano boasts one of the best white wines of the region, known as “Vernaccia”, a wine that can be purchased from shops around the main square, or from the former Franciscan convent in the city, which offers, in addition to the wine, a splendid view over the Tuscan hills.
CITIES AND TOWNS OF TUSCANY
Those listed here are a few of the many fantastic towns of the region. The specific wonders of each are far too numerous to mention. The Michelin Guide, or the D&K Guide, on Tuscany are both excellent guides for further details and for towns and sites not included here.
Florence: There are simply too many artistic wonders to mention, or even summarize here, though it should be noted that one should not pass up tasting a Gelato, the rich and creamy ice cream of Italy, available at many parlours throughout the city. Nor should one miss the large San Lorenzo street market where everything from apples to fine leather is available. The annual music festival takes place in May, and from mid September to mid October, in the odd-numbered years, there is a renowned antique festival. An international festival of documentary films takes place each December. The city has facilities such as swimming pools, tennis and golf, and has a number of good nightclubs.
Siena: Notable as a treasure house of medieval gothic monuments and art, all which are unspoiled by any later alterations. Dickens described it as “like a bit of Venice without the water”. The city was divided into nine segments in 1347, which in medieval times were often at war with each other. Today the rivalry provides for the annual festival “Corsa del Palio” held on July 2 and August 16 for 4 days each, where the traditional costumes and flags are paraded until the culmination of the festival with the bare-back horse riding race around the central Campo.
The Duomo of Sienna was built when the city was at its richest and most powerful. All that wealth and energy was put into the building of this cathedral, which has inlaid marble theme floors and carved pulpit and panels by Pisano, all which make it one of the most spectacular churches in Italy.
Lucca: The architect John Ruskin said he began his studies in Lucca, marveling at 12th century buildings, “originally set in such balance of masonry that they could all stand without mortar; and in material so incorruptible, that after 600 years of sunshine and rain, a lancet could not now be put between their joints”. A century after Ruskin, the buildings of Lucca remain as solid and beautiful as he described. Lucca is situated on the River Serchio and the menu in its many excellent restaurants is distinctive with such dishes as risotto with truffles, lamb stewed with olives, and thrushes cooked on a spit. Another consideration is that Lucca is virtually traffic free due to the outer road that rings the old city.
San Gimignano: A very charming town 55km southwest of Florence. It is surrounded by three rings of walls on a hill (325 metres). Approaching the town through cypresses and vineyards, you will see its 13 famous towers from the distance. The town and its towers offer wonderful panoramic views of the surrounding Tuscan countryside. The best way to see it is on foot as the streets are forbidden to traffic. The architecture is incredibly varied, with Florentine, Sienise, Lucchese, Pisan and even Arabian styles through out the town. The town flourished as a crossroads on the routes of Pilgrims and the Templars and the Knights of Malta set up hostels for travelers. It is also known today for a lovely white wine, Vervacchia. The Palazzo Comunale, the town hall where Dante made his impassioned speech now houses the civic art gallery.
Pisa: This city is of course known for its leaning tower, which has recently under gone some extensive restoration work to stop the dangerous sinking which caused the “lean”. Pisa’s most famous son is Galileo, who made good use of the tower for his experiments on the speed of falling bodies
Montepulciano: Situated on a hill over 600 metres in altitude, this fascinating town looks over the Chianti and Orchia valleys. Remarkable for its architecture, it has numerous incredible palaces and churches and other historical treasures going back to it’s founding by the Etruscan King Lars Porsena.
Greve: Located on the wine route 27 kms south of Florence, this small town dominates the Chianti trade and holds a wine trade fair during the month of September, which is worth a visit.
Arezzo: It’s well worth passing though the unattractive modern buildings to get to the wonderful old city. It is built on Etruscan foundations and is rich in ecclesiastical buildings, museums and art treasures.
Cortona: One of the oldest towns in Tuscany, it is famous for its ancient wall, its collection of Etruscan art and library of parchments and manuscripts.
Caprese Michelangelo: This village is the birthplace of the famous artist and poet, Michelangelo Buonarroti, where you can visit the house where he was born, and a museum with reproductions of many of his works of art.
Carrara: Famous for its marble, which has been mined in the area since Roman times. Marina di Carrara is the northern most seaside resort in Tuscany. In the nearby port, there are always beautiful white blocks of marble awaiting shipment.
Chiusi: One of the original 12 cities, which formed the Etruscan confederation, from which it’s King, Lars Porsena, attacked Rome, according to the celebrated legend. Much of its Etruscan-Roman history is still evident in the architecture, as well as 3rd and 2nd centuries B.C. Etruscan tombs, which can be visited.
Colle di val D’Elsa: Known for its architecture and excellent glass and crystal, as well as the birthplace of the architect Arnolfo di Cambio, who built the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence.
Collodi: The home of Carlo Collodi, creator of Pinocchio. The Parco Di Pinocchio is full of statues of Pinocchio and other wonderful characters from Collodi’s works.
Elba: The largest island of the Tuscan Archipelago, it is 8kms from the mainland, or one hour by ferry. Most famous for providing sanctuary for Emperor Napoleon during his first banishment from France, you can still visit two of his houses on the island. The island’s real charm is in its landscape (a ramblers paradise) and excellent white wine and seafood dishes.
Grossetto: A city founded by the Etruscans featuring an exquisite 13th century cathedral. It deserves a visit simply for its unique cuisine. Such delicacies as octopus and mussels pickled in oil, risotto of crayfish, roast birds with croutons, marinated mountain goat, and Maremman snails provide culinary delights for the adventurous. The nearby village of Vetulonia, prominent in Roman times, features a necropolis revealing remarkable tombs. In the nearby town of Saturnia you can bathe for free in the sulphurated waterfall at Cascate del Gorello on the Montemerano road. Also, about 13 kms away, is the beautiful Marina di Grosseto with lovely sand beaches.
LOCAL MARKETS
Greve in Chianti – Saturday mornings.
San Gimignano – Thursday mornings.
Poggibonsi – Tuesday mornings.
Radda in Chianti – The first Monday of every month in the Afternoon.
This is by no means, a complete list of the wonders of Tuscany, but it should be enough to wet your appetite.
Click here to visit and discover the cities, towns, villages and food and wine of Tuscany with a short term apartment or villa rental with European Home Rentals, specialists in renting weekly short-term vacation rentals apartments, houses, cottages and villas in France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, England, Ireland, Scotland and Greece www.europeanhomerentals.com